Over the Hills and Far Away - A Himalayan Trek

May God bless their souls, was the first thought that came to mind when we cancelled our journey to Base Camp Everest. The earthquake of 2015 sure reduced parts of Nepal to shambles but not the spirit of their people (as we learned from our friends and television channels).

Our aching hearts, notwithstanding, we rerouted from the capital city, Delhi, towards the cinematographic state of Himachal Pradesh, in the light of the first antemeridian hours.

We crossed Punjab’s Chandigarh and, on reaching the Kangra valley of Dharmshala, ten hours later, heard a ringing clarity in the air.

With a sweet cumulus cloud cover overhead, we approached the compendious settlement of McLeod Ganj, seat of His Holiness The Dalai Lama, bursting at its seams with tourists, traditional bakeries, dumpling hawkers and Tibetan temples at right angled crossroads.

The start point of our herculean – or so we believed – trek was Dharmkot, set in the midst of lush pine forests, blossoming rhododendrons and elephantine mountainsides.

Before heaving our backpacks, of overnight tents and sleeping bags, we made a pitstop at Sun & Moon café. You needn’t ask – vegetable maggi and cardamom chai it was!

You know that feeling of resfeber?

We hiked through a tangle of vertiginously sloping paths, watched the sun glide effortlessly over the glassy hills, ready to retire, and fortuitously saw a diamond glow in the mist ahead. What became of this was a stunning sight of the snow-clad Mun Peak, the highest point of the lower Dhauladhars.

Pitching our Quechua tents in the pallid light of the evening was yet another adventure although the stark beauty of the area was unequalled.

We fell asleep, under the sky salted with stars, the crescent moon shining. The warm dusk matured into deep darkness.

The next morning, as the sun rose from behind the granite peaks, we awoke to supernatural, beautiful wilderness.

“Never did sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!”

Not before a quick hors d'oeuvres (oh, it was all of eggs, bread and tea!) did our steep climb resume. The untempered heat, crumbly rocks and surges of chilly wind was a challenging terrain that took us 3 hours to complete. Though, incestously thrilling.

The exhaustion on reaching our destination and campsite, Triund Hill, was forgotten; we stood witness to the well-sculpted, jagged, whitewashed Himalayan ranges and its glorious summits soaring into the clouds, particularly the Indrahar Pass.

An otherworldly sight, if we may. 

A slight drizzle ensued followed by petrichor. We lolled, in the swoon of the background, in a cozy teahouse serving rajma/dal chawal, omelettes, hot chocolate and the likes.

An evening of bone-chilling winds brought about a cheerful woodfire whose warmth suffused into our tents for the rest of the night.

As the moon poured its light across the land, we drifted into a dreamless sleep.

At daybreak, we unwillingly made our way back to the base, and a resolve -

"I will come back to you, I swear I will;
And you will know me still.
I shall be only a little taller
Than when I went."

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The Smokies, Tennessee

“The mountains are calling, and I must go.”

One weekend, in the mood for adventure, we loaded the car with a few friends, and drove towards Tennessee. 14 hours and 2000 miles, over a weekend, just to experience the magic of the Great Smoky Mountains!

In what was the first snowfall of the season, we reached a beautiful, secluded cabin, Cosby Creek on Spruce lane, overlooking the icy summits. Imagine this, filtered light through the window, the trees wearing blankets of snow, a view of the slender valley, and us, cozily settled in with the fireplace and hot tea.

As the weather slowed to a few gentle flakes, we decided to explore Gatlinburg and drove to a little resto-pub, Blaine’s Grill, the city’s favourite restaurant.

The sun slowly started disappearing behind the peaks and we spent the rest of our time eating warm funnel cakes, taffies and chocolate raisins, walking through the city lights that beckoned to us like tiny constellations.

As a warning, the roads were closed for the evening due to inclement weather.

The next morning, as the high altitude sun brushed the landscape, we awoke to the smell of homemade eggs and coffee. We set out towards the Smoky Mountain National Park, via Gatlinburg and the Sugarland trail, a thickly forested cover of spruce trees dusted with snow.

We continued along the banks of a creek, breathing in the cold mountain air and taking in the scenic fall foliage that never ceases to amaze.

Closer to the North Carolina border, we chanced upon the famed Tail of the Dragon in Deal’s Gap - vertiginously sloping roads, the stony mountainside, weather bound valleys, and 311 bends in 11 miles!

It was like flying over another world, one we were reluctant to leave.

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Scenic Fall Drives: White Mountains, New Hampshire

One morning, in the midst of the trees bursting with amber colored leaves, we took off on a road journey towards New Hampshire, New England's famous fall state.

Autumn had arrived without any warning.

From Connecticut via the border of the green state of Vermont, the beauty was severe. The fluctuating cool winds and the filtered light of the sun made it especially ideal for travel. It seemed like this was the season of new beginnings.

As we entered the granite state and neared the alpines of the illustrious White Mountains, peak fall begun to show itself - the air was almost wild with foliage.

First, the Lost River Gorge in Kinsman Notch, a cascading stream of water that disappears into a deep abysses, ultimately leading to the River Pemigewasset. The path from here directly joins the Kancamagus Highway, a dramatic bypass road leading us through the White Mountain National Forest.

Pigments in shades of cinnamon, saffron and auburn, the smell of pines, the dense forest cover, the maples, birches and spruces soaring towards the sky, the wilderness, the sound of leaves cracking in the breeze – all made for a breathtaking experience.

Further along, we reached Fraconia Notch State Park, comfortably situated among the Fraconia Mountain ranges. We rode through Lincoln, a profound silence languishing over the land, until we reached Flume Gorge, a 2-mile boardwalk surrounded by a pulsating, shadowy warmth of flowers and ferns. From here, we could see the peaks of Cannon Mountain silhouetted against the sky.

We drove towards the contouring peaks, polychrome fall leaf trees rising up on either side. As we passed through, in the gathering twilight, we chanced upon the historic little town of Gorham that took us directly to the entrance of Mount Washington.

We ended our drive to- and from New Hampshire realizing, we live for experiences such as these. Now, our favorite color is October!

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Howdy Houston!

If you’re planning a trip to Texas and do land up in its largest city, Houston, here are some ways to be absolutely touristy.

1. As you’re riding through this populous state, it’s most likely that you will realize how massive it is. 6-lane roads, futuristic skyscrapers on one hand, and the long, undulating, flat countryside, on the other. But, enjoy the drive. The uncongested roads (as opposed to the East coast) are an exhilarating experience.

2. The Williams Tower is the tallest in Houston. With streaks of sunlight reflecting off of it, with a view of the Waterwall, with the summer sky and the delightfully green, Gerald. D. Hines Park, this can be quite a sight.

3. In the vicinity, the Waterwall, recirculates several hundred tons of recycled water every day and is almost 65 feet in height, we were told. You might have to jostle your way to get a decent picture here but it’s amazingly cooling in 100*F.

4. Food trucks. Because there's nothing like Tex-Mex in Texas, right? You are sure to find them in every nook and corner.

5. Whether you're Hindu, or not, there's a finely carved marble temple, Swami Narayan, in the heart of the city, which you cannot miss. The serenity you may feel here is astounding. No, I'm serious; a less touristy thing to do - but, hey, who would've thought!

6. When in Houston, visit NASA. The Mars free-fall , space shuttle tours, your weight on Jupiter, touching a 'piece of the moon' and trying on astronaut jumpsuits will bring out your inner child.

7. The Kemah boardwalk. Like a million, bright supernovas, this place is glorious post-sunset. Waterfront dining, spectacular views and amusing ziplines. It's possible you might never want to leave!

8. If you took all the rainforests in the world and put them together, it would be here, at the Rainforest Pyramid in Moody Gardens. Climate-controlled, tropically-recreated spaces where you may chance upon posing Saki monkeys, poison dart frogs, macaws, blue duikers and so many many more exotic species.

9. Ride surrey bike limos on Galveston Island's Galveston Beach, with a bowl of frozen yogurt. The gentle wash of the waves, strips of clouds gliding overhead, sea breeze, the gleeful whistling wind, the weathering sun, and the curvy coastline is sure to please you, infinitely.

All you have to do is stop and stare.

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Summertime in Maine

Sans plan, a few friends, and us, mapped out our 4th July-long weekend along the undulating east coast, from CT to the state of Maine.

First, we were greeted by Portland, where, the occasional warmth from the sun, howling winds, the swirl of the sea and the incessant drizzle from the tropical storm, Arthur, snuggled us into a local pub, Rí Rá. Best part? We made it just in time for the World Cup football game between France and Germany.

As we sat by a table overlooking the harbor, relishing our home-cut fries and white bean burgers, the clouds outside began to further darken.

Reluctantly, we made our way back into the tempest, in the direction of Belfast, where we were booked into the Belfast Harbor Inn. A town situated in mid-coast Maine and, yes, it came with a view of the Penobscot Bay.

As if a sign, we promptly perched ourselves on the balcony, watching the moored boats sway in the distance, droplets of rain dancing on the eddying current and just a glint of the eclipsed sun. A sense of repose reined (and I know I speak for all of us when I say this).

Decidedly, we sat indoors all evening after a quick stop at Rollie’s, a local restaurant serving, probably, the crispiest onion rings on the planet!

As dusk turned to dawn, we drove, in the downpour, on the Penobscot River Bridge, only to reach the Narrows Bridge Observatory, 447 feet tall, dauntingly situated on the bank of the Penobscot River (ultimately leading into the Atlantic Ocean). In under a minute, we were atop the tallest public bridge-observatories in the world!

Getting a bird’s view of the place, including Verona Island and the Hancock Bridge, was indeed a splendid sight. Ignore the beads of rainwater scattered as tiny specks and covering the entire town that morning.

Next, Fort Knox. A statuesque fortification, that immediately took us back to the 1800s and the American Revolution. We toured this establishment, built to keep out lumber-invaders, and soaked in its history.

After a heavy Mexican lunch, we travelled some distance to get to Acadia National Park via the glorious, Park Loop Road. The sunlit afternoon, the queue of serrated trees, and the ribbon of a road ahead of us made for a delightful drive. But before that, a quick beach stop!

We neared one of Maine’s most scenic points, Cadillac Mountains. The hills were soft where the sky stood high and blue. While watching the dynamic, summer sky as we dwelled in the comfort of our lives taking shape.

We then took the route to Jordon House Pond, the source of public water supply, again, established in the 19th century as a summer destination with serene outdoor dining. The reservoir was swollen from the rains, slapping against the stony shores every now and then.

Acadia is a mammoth-sized park. Our next visit was to the Sand Beach: fine grains, crystalline waters, uncongested, and a stiff sea breeze that could bring back childhood memories.

A phantasm.

Unwillingly, as the evening light started to set in, we made our way back – the land seemed sunk into the ocean.

Ended with some off-the-beaten-track Thai red curry and mango sticky rice.

As the morning dawned bright, we blocked out the day to do some kayaking, along the glittery, turquoise, leaping waters of Castine Bay, which is incidentally bioluminescent by night.

Our kayaks took us a long way from the shore, leaving behind a trail of frothy water, and met us with azure lake houses and freewheeling seagulls.

A fitting end to a beautiful holiday.

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