Paradise Found – Bali, Indonesia

So, here’s our story.

India → Singapore → Ngurah Rai International Airport Denpasar

Eight of us - we were travelling with friends - arrived at the Indonesian archipelago heaving sighs of relief (earlier, there was a drifting volcanic ash cloud from Mt. Ruang that disallowed flights from landing in Bali).

Our foremost visit was, naturally, for coffee; a spice garden producing the most expensive, exotic coffee beans of Kopi Luwak, also called civet coffee. Oh well, we tried it anyway!

Next stop and our home for a few days: Villa D’Carik, Sayan, Ubud

Built in Balinese style architecture, this property almost assumed seventh heaven - a lilt in the air, rooms of wooden walls, bathtubs fit for royalty, and an idyllic infinity pool overlooking the rice fields of Bali.

Peace was present then and there.

Bali, referred to as Vali in some languages, means ‘ceremonies’, and luckily enough, we were in the midst of Galungan Day celebrations - a time of the year when Hindu homes and temples are adorned with their aesthetically decorated, signature penjor.

On Sunday morning, we were chauffeured by our guide to witness the cornucopia of temples that Ubud hosts, the untempered summer sky for cover.

First, Pura Tirta Empul or Holy Spring Water Temple, an hour’s drive away, located in the largely populated town of Gianyar. A sight indelible, this sanctuary, is where the Balinese people immerse and purify themselves in the blessed water.

The temple is divided, by ornamented doorways, into three regions symbolic of hell, Earth and heaven. Here, we were told tales of spiritual beings, religious customs and ancestral rituals, and it fascinated us infinitely.

“In every outthrust headland, in every curving beach, in every grain of sand, there is the story of the Earth.”

Then, Gunung Kawi. A 11th century wonder, carved into solid rock. Amazingly, the construction isn’t a temple but a monument revered by both the Hindus and Buddhists.

This magical place was discovered beside a river, in the valley, beyond the rice terraces.

We had a gastronomic experience with Indonesian food. Our favourite restaurant being Ibu Rai in the heart of Ubud, serving authentic Vietnamese rolls, tempeh skewers on a bed of Nasi Goreng, Cap Cay overflowing with tofu, curry-like Kare a la Bali, Nasi Campung spiced with Sambal Oelek, and of course, Bintang to wash it all down!

We serenaded through the Ubud Art Market and the palace of Puri Saren before ending our evening with a quiet swim, poolside dinner and moon-watching. Nyctophilic, us.

In the early hours of the day 3, we headed towards Indonesia’s most sacred, active volcanic trails i.e. Mt. Batur of Kintamani.

Hiking 7.5 km on a moderately challenging terrain, to watch the honeyed sun ascend, was no easy feat but the breathtaking vistas of the fields yonder, archaic lava engraved into the crags and the loose rocks with black ash, made for a surreal affair.

The summit was most magnificent a spectacle (albeit a bit foggy during the actual sunrise). In the distance, you can see the largest caldera lake, Danau.

A satisfying meal of Mie Goreng later, we spent the late evening promenading the property of Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.

In the gleaming waters of Bedugul was poised a resplendent temple complex, its reflection shimmering. The pale peaks of the mountains in the farness, the trimness of the turf and the tranquil setting added a dash more of beauty to the site.

Sama-sama Ubud and halo Seminyak!

What can be said about the boutique suites in Astana Batubelig Luxury Villas that isn’t, it’s one of the best hotels we’ve ever stayed at?! For one, an exclusive plunge pool all to ourselves, a bath of eminence.

Renting bikes in this beach town was a good idea – you instantly feel one with the land.

The west coast of Bali is truly a magical wonderland.

Tanah Lot, north of Kuta, an exotic rock formation which was highlighted against the backdrop of a pavonine sky and the last rays of the sun with its flickering lining of warmth, is a remedy for all indispositions.

Utopia, indeed.

Bali, apparently, mustered the courage in us to try something new, and so we did - scuba diving!

After a short training session with PADI instructors, we found ourselves on the east coast of the island, at Sanur Reef. Nerves rattling, we finally dove into the turbulent seawater.

But underwater, all was calm; among the gently waving weeds in the sandy seabed, and the picturesque coral, were numberless Xmas tree fish, a shoal of surgeonfish (Hi Dory!), an occasional, tinted starfish, schools of parrotfish, and the trumpet fish merging with vertical polyps.

We biked all the way to the Uluwatu temple, that evening. Perched 70m above the waters of the Indian Ocean, this structure in its habitat makes our list of one of the most exceptional sunsets ever witnessed.

It was the tacenda.

You can’t leave Bali without an actual beach visit! We were fortunate to have the Batu Belig Beach just a few steps away from our villa.

The voice of the whispering breeze, the sine curve of the coastline, the heaving of waves and the immense sky with cloud and sun made for a quintessential postcard of sights and sounds.

We asked each of our friends to describe this destination and what they said was, blissful and impeccably serene yet lively and spirited, colourful and magical, a stimulating, exhilarating experience.

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Over the Hills and Far Away - A Himalayan Trek

May God bless their souls, was the first thought that came to mind when we cancelled our journey to Base Camp Everest. The earthquake of 2015 sure reduced parts of Nepal to shambles but not the spirit of their people (as we learned from our friends and television channels).

Our aching hearts, notwithstanding, we rerouted from the capital city, Delhi, towards the cinematographic state of Himachal Pradesh, in the light of the first antemeridian hours.

We crossed Punjab’s Chandigarh and, on reaching the Kangra valley of Dharmshala, ten hours later, heard a ringing clarity in the air.

With a sweet cumulus cloud cover overhead, we approached the compendious settlement of McLeod Ganj, seat of His Holiness The Dalai Lama, bursting at its seams with tourists, traditional bakeries, dumpling hawkers and Tibetan temples at right angled crossroads.

The start point of our herculean – or so we believed – trek was Dharmkot, set in the midst of lush pine forests, blossoming rhododendrons and elephantine mountainsides.

Before heaving our backpacks, of overnight tents and sleeping bags, we made a pitstop at Sun & Moon café. You needn’t ask – vegetable maggi and cardamom chai it was!

You know that feeling of resfeber?

We hiked through a tangle of vertiginously sloping paths, watched the sun glide effortlessly over the glassy hills, ready to retire, and fortuitously saw a diamond glow in the mist ahead. What became of this was a stunning sight of the snow-clad Mun Peak, the highest point of the lower Dhauladhars.

Pitching our Quechua tents in the pallid light of the evening was yet another adventure although the stark beauty of the area was unequalled.

We fell asleep, under the sky salted with stars, the crescent moon shining. The warm dusk matured into deep darkness.

The next morning, as the sun rose from behind the granite peaks, we awoke to supernatural, beautiful wilderness.

“Never did sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!”

Not before a quick hors d'oeuvres (oh, it was all of eggs, bread and tea!) did our steep climb resume. The untempered heat, crumbly rocks and surges of chilly wind was a challenging terrain that took us 3 hours to complete. Though, incestously thrilling.

The exhaustion on reaching our destination and campsite, Triund Hill, was forgotten; we stood witness to the well-sculpted, jagged, whitewashed Himalayan ranges and its glorious summits soaring into the clouds, particularly the Indrahar Pass.

An otherworldly sight, if we may. 

A slight drizzle ensued followed by petrichor. We lolled, in the swoon of the background, in a cozy teahouse serving rajma/dal chawal, omelettes, hot chocolate and the likes.

An evening of bone-chilling winds brought about a cheerful woodfire whose warmth suffused into our tents for the rest of the night.

As the moon poured its light across the land, we drifted into a dreamless sleep.

At daybreak, we unwillingly made our way back to the base, and a resolve -

"I will come back to you, I swear I will;
And you will know me still.
I shall be only a little taller
Than when I went."

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The Smokies, Tennessee

“The mountains are calling, and I must go.”

One weekend, in the mood for adventure, we loaded the car with a few friends, and drove towards Tennessee. 14 hours and 2000 miles, over a weekend, just to experience the magic of the Great Smoky Mountains!

In what was the first snowfall of the season, we reached a beautiful, secluded cabin, Cosby Creek on Spruce lane, overlooking the icy summits. Imagine this, filtered light through the window, the trees wearing blankets of snow, a view of the slender valley, and us, cozily settled in with the fireplace and hot tea.

As the weather slowed to a few gentle flakes, we decided to explore Gatlinburg and drove to a little resto-pub, Blaine’s Grill, the city’s favourite restaurant.

The sun slowly started disappearing behind the peaks and we spent the rest of our time eating warm funnel cakes, taffies and chocolate raisins, walking through the city lights that beckoned to us like tiny constellations.

As a warning, the roads were closed for the evening due to inclement weather.

The next morning, as the high altitude sun brushed the landscape, we awoke to the smell of homemade eggs and coffee. We set out towards the Smoky Mountain National Park, via Gatlinburg and the Sugarland trail, a thickly forested cover of spruce trees dusted with snow.

We continued along the banks of a creek, breathing in the cold mountain air and taking in the scenic fall foliage that never ceases to amaze.

Closer to the North Carolina border, we chanced upon the famed Tail of the Dragon in Deal’s Gap - vertiginously sloping roads, the stony mountainside, weather bound valleys, and 311 bends in 11 miles!

It was like flying over another world, one we were reluctant to leave.

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Scenic Fall Drives: White Mountains, New Hampshire

One morning, in the midst of the trees bursting with amber colored leaves, we took off on a road journey towards New Hampshire, New England's famous fall state.

Autumn had arrived without any warning.

From Connecticut via the border of the green state of Vermont, the beauty was severe. The fluctuating cool winds and the filtered light of the sun made it especially ideal for travel. It seemed like this was the season of new beginnings.

As we entered the granite state and neared the alpines of the illustrious White Mountains, peak fall begun to show itself - the air was almost wild with foliage.

First, the Lost River Gorge in Kinsman Notch, a cascading stream of water that disappears into a deep abysses, ultimately leading to the River Pemigewasset. The path from here directly joins the Kancamagus Highway, a dramatic bypass road leading us through the White Mountain National Forest.

Pigments in shades of cinnamon, saffron and auburn, the smell of pines, the dense forest cover, the maples, birches and spruces soaring towards the sky, the wilderness, the sound of leaves cracking in the breeze – all made for a breathtaking experience.

Further along, we reached Fraconia Notch State Park, comfortably situated among the Fraconia Mountain ranges. We rode through Lincoln, a profound silence languishing over the land, until we reached Flume Gorge, a 2-mile boardwalk surrounded by a pulsating, shadowy warmth of flowers and ferns. From here, we could see the peaks of Cannon Mountain silhouetted against the sky.

We drove towards the contouring peaks, polychrome fall leaf trees rising up on either side. As we passed through, in the gathering twilight, we chanced upon the historic little town of Gorham that took us directly to the entrance of Mount Washington.

We ended our drive to- and from New Hampshire realizing, we live for experiences such as these. Now, our favorite color is October!

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Howdy Houston!

If you’re planning a trip to Texas and do land up in its largest city, Houston, here are some ways to be absolutely touristy.

1. As you’re riding through this populous state, it’s most likely that you will realize how massive it is. 6-lane roads, futuristic skyscrapers on one hand, and the long, undulating, flat countryside, on the other. But, enjoy the drive. The uncongested roads (as opposed to the East coast) are an exhilarating experience.

2. The Williams Tower is the tallest in Houston. With streaks of sunlight reflecting off of it, with a view of the Waterwall, with the summer sky and the delightfully green, Gerald. D. Hines Park, this can be quite a sight.

3. In the vicinity, the Waterwall, recirculates several hundred tons of recycled water every day and is almost 65 feet in height, we were told. You might have to jostle your way to get a decent picture here but it’s amazingly cooling in 100*F.

4. Food trucks. Because there's nothing like Tex-Mex in Texas, right? You are sure to find them in every nook and corner.

5. Whether you're Hindu, or not, there's a finely carved marble temple, Swami Narayan, in the heart of the city, which you cannot miss. The serenity you may feel here is astounding. No, I'm serious; a less touristy thing to do - but, hey, who would've thought!

6. When in Houston, visit NASA. The Mars free-fall , space shuttle tours, your weight on Jupiter, touching a 'piece of the moon' and trying on astronaut jumpsuits will bring out your inner child.

7. The Kemah boardwalk. Like a million, bright supernovas, this place is glorious post-sunset. Waterfront dining, spectacular views and amusing ziplines. It's possible you might never want to leave!

8. If you took all the rainforests in the world and put them together, it would be here, at the Rainforest Pyramid in Moody Gardens. Climate-controlled, tropically-recreated spaces where you may chance upon posing Saki monkeys, poison dart frogs, macaws, blue duikers and so many many more exotic species.

9. Ride surrey bike limos on Galveston Island's Galveston Beach, with a bowl of frozen yogurt. The gentle wash of the waves, strips of clouds gliding overhead, sea breeze, the gleeful whistling wind, the weathering sun, and the curvy coastline is sure to please you, infinitely.

All you have to do is stop and stare.

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