Utopia: Three Islands of The Andamans

Port Blair

As the flight from Chennai landed in the island’s archipelago, immediately, a pleasant radiance emanated.

We checked into a cozy B&B, Andaman Galley, a few minutes from the airport. Our only agenda was beach food at Corbyn’s Cove, a curvy coastline with palms in the background, jet skiers and paragliders galore.

The setting sun quickly melted into shades of orange and we rode off towards the iconic Cellular Jail for an evening tour.

In what was a brilliant show of light and sound, we learned of India’s struggle for freedom and the strength of her heroic fighters in these parts.

A fathomless realm.

We then ensconced ourselves in the exotic Fortune Resort Bay Island, swaying to the tunes of the 90s, and retiring to bed early.

Havelock Island

In the soporific breeze of dawn, the Green Ocean ferry awaited us as we climbed aboard its royal class.

The mellifluous waves of the Bay of Bengal, the extensive sweep of the sky with a hint of sunshine and the gentle wafts of air reduced us to liquid slow, in mind and body. Except when we spotted flying fish!

Three hours later, we arrived at the Havelock jetty and hailed an autorickshaw (more easily available than cabs) that led us to Island Vinnie’s Tropical Beach Resort. Located on Beach no. 3 and the hub of Dive India, we had truly descended upon paradise!

The tented cabana was an eco-friendly, luxurious, clean, comfortable accommodation, adjacent to the beach, and oh, a private hammock for happiness.

A massive breakfast at the Full Moon Cafe was followed by biking all the way to Kaala Pathar, yet another piece of gorgeous façade interrupted by bits of private beachland.

Sunset on the island decorated the pristine beaches of Radhanagar, voted among Asia’s best, and we momentarily forgot about the notoriously rough roads that got us here.

The place felt alive with the warmth and sound of the languid seawater.

At the rise of the misty sun, the next morning, we dressed in our scuba gear ready for a session of diving in ‘Nemo Reef’ of the South Andaman Sea.

We careened underwater while the popular clownfish peeked in and out of his sea anemone, the inquisitive parrotfish displayed herself where a squid or two wandered, a shy manta ray zoomed off the ocean floor in contrast to the sluggish sea cucumber.

A kaleidoscope of colour, a whole different world.

We swam back to the shores, and again got lost in the rhythm of the unspeakably blue waters and the dazzling white sands; strolling, and then pausing to take it all in. Ah, life on an island!

Ross Island

A night was spent in Port Blair’s Shelter on the Sea, a value-for-money homestay, almost touching the sea.

We were awash on to our destination - terra firma, thankfully - after a 15 minute bumpy motor boat ride. On the flipside, oh so azure!

The islet, now abandoned, was quaint wilderness.

Lavish with forest area, we explored the ruins of an erstwhile church, still an elaborate structure, army barracks, remnants of commissioner bungalows undimmed by the advance of time.

The beauty of Ross Island also lies in its flamboyant peacock and a species of red deer that traipsed in our midst as we lost ourselves in tranquility.

“The best love is the kind that awakens the soul and makes us reach for more, that plants a fire in our hearts and brings peace to our minds.”

Our two cents on the Andamans: an incontestably magical wonderland.

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Enchanted by Coonoor, The Nilgris, India

It was at the first light of dawn that we arrived in a quiet town surrounded by the “blue mountains”, 2000m above sea level, Coonoor.

Amidst the touch of winter in the wind, we checked into MGM Hill Worth Resorts – a gem of a find, set on a cliff overlooking the pale peaks of the Nilgiri in the farness. What we got was a grandeur room, a sit out verandah, and a private bonfire.

Our first halt, following a stealthy road-climb, was Lamb’s Rock. Here, the frequent wisps of mist uncovered, every now and then, a view of the panoramic tea estates below.

Nature, a magician in all honesty!

“That's the thing about magic; you've got to know it's still here, all around us, or it just stays invisible for you.”

Next, we drove up to Dolphin’s Nose. In the sun illuminating the woods, we hiked to the summit through Shola Forest, only, yet again, to be stifled by beauty.

The sight of the endless undulating hills in the sky stir up a sense of eudaimonia in us, a happiness.

On our way down, we sniffed the scents of eucalyptus and winter green and could'nt resist purchasing their oils.

We also paid a visit to the lush, entrancing Highland Tea Garden. Acres of evergreen shrubbery glistening in the calm afternoon sun.

Dinner (read classic daiquiris!) was at the iconic Gateway Hotel, a charming colonial establishment tucked away in the hilly landscape.

As the morning dawned bright, we booked first class tickets on the Heritage Train from Coonoor to Ooty, and were off on what was a quixotic quest of sorts.

The train chugged through little stations between the endless arrays of trees whistling a lilting tune. The splashes of sunshine, the birds racing back and forth, the hued blossoms, the plentiful vistas, and just the tranquility of it all was an experience to cherish.

As we set foot in Ooty (locally known as Ootacamund), there was just enough time to do lunch at Earl’s Secret in King’s Cliff. Where its history fascinated us, their signature chocolate brownies almost held us hostage.

Our ride back to Coonoor and then home was sadly imminent but this was one of those that, incomprehensibly, left a lasting impact on us.

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Tales from an Indian Union Territory: Pondicherry

We watched from our car windows as the clouds made shapes, and soon reached what was a French settlement in India, Puducherry (Pondicherry or Pondy, with love).

Our choice of stay was Neemrana’s La Maison Tamoule. An idyllic establishment bathing in antiquity - welcoming duplex rooms of typical 19th century architecture, wooden walls, patterns on red mud floors, an open courtyard, a tall patio, and an instant sense of coziness. 

First, we got lunch at La Villa Shanti located amidst former colonial French homes, the luxury of the sea breeze and the indulgent, fresh home-style food, well...c’est la vie! Wandering off into the charming French quarter was a delight all for the angelic churches, neatly arranged mustard coloured bungalows, irregular curio shops, and them lively bars. 

We then quickly pinpointed a sea-facing restaurant and sat ourselves snugly in the pretty picture it painted. 

You know what's beautiful about this part of the city? The Promenade. It is completely traffic-free, after hours, over the weekend. While walking along this beach road in utmost composure, we also found some good company in the streeties. 

Our hearts always yearn for a sight of the approach and retreat of waves, and on this occasion, heavens, did we have our fill!

At daybreak, we lounged awhile (blame it on the large breakfast) before actually venturing out. 

Stop number one was the Aurobindo Handmade Paper Factory where we encountered a world of handcrafted goods and spent a few moments secretly nurturing our relationship with stationery! 

It was also suggested we visit The Mother's Ashram, a realm of seclusion, of spirituality, of meditation, of inner peace. 

No trip to Pondicherry is complete without a customary visit to Auroville. So, we headed towards this township, stopped at a cute coffee house, Boulangerie (incidentally serving divine breads), and worked our way up to the Matrimandir. 

What we witnessed was a magnificent, golden, dome-shaped structure, in a bucolic setting, a touch of sunlight reflecting off its surface. 

As entry to the inside is restricted, and as the drizzle turned into a tearing rain, we trudged to the exit with fresh, raisin muffins in hand. 

We departed from here feeling the feeling of "Wherever you go becomes part of you somehow."

Photo Credits: Akshar

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Celebrating Two Years: Pollachi, India

It was not one of those strong, impulsive feelings that can hit two people like an electric shock when they first meet, but something quieter and gentler, like two tiny lights traveling in tandem through a vast darkness and drawing imperceptibly closer to each other as they go.

– Haruki Murakami, The Wind-up Bird Chronicle

I was blindfolded while he executed the plan.

The journey to Coimbatore and then the two hour road trip towards a town called Pollachi, located near the Tamil Nadu-Kerala border, was all collywobbles.

On our anniversary weekend, we arrived at the foothills of the Anaimalai Hills, lodged in the biodiverse Western Ghats, and witnessed a lush, exclusive property – Great Mount Resorts’ Coco Lagoon.

For one who is slightly averse to planning, the ‘surpriser’ sure did a good job!

On checking into a more than adequate room - with a view of a coconut grove dotting gleaming waters, adjacent to an Ayurvedic spa - the vacationers in us wouldn’t budge from our seats in the balcony.

Hours later, we found ourselves in loungers by the pool, reading classic love stories (don't mind the cheese!).

The sky began to cast a deep shade in the sky as we popped our first bottle of Pinot Noir for the evening.

We drank to an eternity of togetherness.

Following an elaborate breakfast the next morning, we decided to head up the hills blessed with a wealth of Asian elephants in the midst of its luxuriant foliage.

We were also fortunate to see a muster of peacocks fanning their feathers, a plethora of birds darting from tree to tree.

When it was time to return the way we came, and back home to Chennai, our hearts almost wouldn’t let us.

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A Trail Through Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle

“The world is full of magic things patiently waiting for our senses to grow sharper.”

Sitting amid a skyful of stars (thank you, SriLankan Airlines), Ceylon tea in hand, we noticed a matutinal glow painted across the sky. This was unmistakably a good sign.

Thereafter, we landed in Colombo and drove 4 hours straight, in the warm sunlight, to Anuradhapura situated in the North Central Province of the island. The scenic countryside was a breath of fresh air, an aura of pleasantness radiating everywhere.

On checking into our hotel, Palm Garden Village, we experienced a cosmic sort of love. At first sight!

Acres of forest land, the property lined with mango orchards, lustrous blades of grass, winding pathways, birds darting from tree to tree, and among this bountiful serenity stood our cottage, garden patio and all.

Anuradhapura also the Sacred City of Sri Lanka truly enchants.

A religious magnet to visitors, we explored the Mirisawetiya vihāra built post-war, guarding the relics of Lord Buddha. After several attempts at reconstruction, it still stands in the blaze of the sun, telling its story.

This was followed, in close vicinity, by the Ruwanwelisaya stupa. We engaged with some locals about the nuances of this architectural wonder. As history would have it, another pagoda, the Thuparamaya, believed to be the first ever monument in the country, also playing a part in its formation, was the highlight of our cultural learning.

Marvels, from as ancient as the BC, that remained undiminished by the fragments of time.

From here, we jaunted around a bit more, witnessing the Mahabodhi Tree at the Maha Pirivena, a resting place for monks on pilgrimage. We were especially awed by the Buddhist temple of Isurumuniya vihāra further beautified by the Tisawewa (a pond), its carvings admirable, the panorama from its summit stunning.

As flaneurs, in the pallid light of near-dusk, we also visited the Abhayagiri dagoba. A bell shaped stupa, a fortress with symphonic intensity.

Back in our suite, a traditional dinner was served – coconut sambal and pol roti, pickled radishes, a snake gourd and mallum salad, winged beans, dhal and fish curries, amba maluwa and a bed of red rice, accompanied by pints of Lion beer.

After a hard day, the inexplicable joy this Sinhalese meal brought knew no bounds!

At dawn, we headed off, to a more central part of the country, Dambulla. First, our check in at Aliya Resort and Spa deserves some attention – a hotel overlooking an infinity pool overlooking Sigiriya Rock in the distance, and luxury tents in the midst of the melodious sounds of nature.

Literally, a phantasm in the wilderness. Favourite hotel? This one’s definitely on the list!

We worked on our suntans, in the gentle afternoon by languid waters, and got some downtime together, before routing to The Golden Cave Temple.

At the entrance, an enormous meditating Buddha towered over us. The hike up the hill to the caves, in the slight drizzle and occasional swooping gusts of wind, was indeed gratifying.

On reaching the top, we delved into the life of Gautama Buddha depicted by murals on the walls and as statues in different postures.

We chanced upon Mango Mango, a cute café serving inexpensive Ceylonese coffees and teas, and confectionaries – yes, the freshest chocolate cakes! The day ended with an aromatic bubble bath and yet another fantastic Sri Lankan meal.

As the city bathed in splashes of sunlight, the next morning, a trip to the acclaimed Sigiriya, or Lion Rock, was warranted.

A palace built in stone, decorated by frescoes and adorned with water gardens, and the remains of this ancient kingdom rising to a royal 600ft in height.

On climbing to the Rock’s summit, the vastness of the city unrolled ahead while we dwelled in discovering our new emotions.

Stopping for a kurumba or two never did anyone harm – the king of all coconuts!

Next, we proceeded on the hilly road towards Kandy, only taking a break to whiff some fragrances at a spice garden in the Matale district.

Earl’s Regent – our retreat for two nights, with a view of the evergreen shrubbery of tea plantations.

We awoke to a poolside breakfast and set out gallivanting; a touch of summer still hung in the air. We halted at the Royal Peradeniya Botanical Gardens located just behind a river. More than 100 acres of carpets of greenery!

“Gardens are poems

Where you stroll with your hands in your pockets.”

For lunch, we chose the Honeypot Restaurant, and without a moment’s hesitation chose window seats. Lo and behold, the Mahaweli River flowing in all its might!

As fine raindrops fell on this plateau, we ambled up a hillock, took a quick look at a Batik factory and then found the most picturesque spot to stop and stare.

The Temple of the Tooth Relic, where we also learned the story of the moonstone, was most tranquil a shrine.

One of the most revered places in Sri Lanka believed to house the tooth of Lord Buddha looked gilded that evening.

We checked out of our heavenly abode, early, the following day, in the direction of Colombo. Made a stopover at the Mlesna Tea Fortress, enjoyed a cuppa Dambulla strong brew black tea and did not forget to buy at least 10 other varieties (we’re certified tea addicts!).

The capital was fiery on our arrival only to be soothed by more pekoe at the Dilmah T Lounge; we ended this journey with a walk at the Galle Hotel Greens and dinner in the Dutch Hospital area. 

With this, we knew that our dalliance with this island-nation is probably going to last a long time coming.

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