The Good, Better & Best of Tamil Nadu (& Pondicherry)

“We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we’re curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths.”

For months now, we've spent our time basking in the comfort of our motherland!

Our journey has been – from the land of glittery temples, Chennai (lovingly, Madras) to the luxurious coastlines and beaches of Mahabalipuram, to trekker’s paradise in Yelagiri, to former la territoire française de Pondicherry, to the blissfully poignant, Dutch-inspired Tranquebar, the enchanting lake-town of Pulicat to the fecund, Anaimalai Hills and the city of Coimbatore to the undulating tea estates of Coonoor and Ooty – has been all parts fantastic.

Vanakkam! Madras, where every nook and corner boasts of elegant, architecturally perfect temples. 

Delicious vegetarian street food in Chennai has us ransom for life. Yes, we vote it over the five-starrers! 

A sense of the sublime in Vedanthangal, an hour away from the city, and bird paradise in short.

Fisherman’s Cove and its exotic seaside dining, with a view of the Bay of Bengal, almost has no match. The restless motion of the waves slapping against the banks, serendipitously, exudes a calming effect every time.

Mahabalipuram, or Mamallapuram: all about lunch at The Wharf at Radisson’s Temple Bay, dinner at Moonrakers and, not to forget, a mandatory visit to the banks of Shore Temple.

Teeming with tradition in Pondicherry, is La Maison Tamoule, a 19th century Neemrana heritage hotel, a regal mix of the French, Baroque and Indian styles of architecture. This goes straight up our list of favourite hotel rooms.

Boulangerie, a pocket-sized coffee house serving us their best rye bread with black olive pate, organically grown salad, and of course, French coffee. On t’aime! Run by volunteers from Auroville, just a few kilometers from the heart of Pondicherry. 

The Chennai-Bangalore highway, NH4, sure is a satisfying drive. We used this to our advantage and one weekend, an impromptu decision landed us in Yelagiri Hills. Trekked all morning in the ample leafage and the overindulgent brightness before we came upon a panoramic view of the city and the plains beyond.

Flamingo-watching and lighthouse-sightings in Pulicat. This town is so off-the-beaten-path, it was sheer delight to explore.

Neemrana’s Bungalow on the Beach, and make that poolside, please! Tranquebar, the coastal settlement in the Nagapattinam district never recovered from the tsunami of 2009 but it sure puts on a brave front to its visitors.

Weekend getaway to GMR’s Coco Lagoon, Pollachi, at the foothills of the Anaimalai Hills. Here we found respite, and elephants. 

Cups of cardamom tea are like magic portion, and the Highland plantations in Coonoor are proof of that.

A fairytale hike through Shola Forest inflated our lungs and made us breathless at the same time, courtesy scenic views of the Nilgiri hills jutting into the cloudy sky.

We have fallen prey to some stunning, offbeat destinations in and around the capital of Tamil Nadu, and this is probably only just the beginning.

Read More

The Land of Coffee - Chikmagalur, Karnataka, India

“And above all, watch with glittering eyes the whole world around you because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places…” ~ Roald Dahl

A smooth drive of 300km from Bangalore led us to the district of Chikmagalur, locally known as Chikkamagaluru, set in the foothills of the Mullayanagiri hills (parent range, the Western Ghats). We were welcomed by a profusion of colours in the region.

Before reaching our accommodation, a small detour to the temples of Belur was warranted. In what is an architectural feat of the Hoysala period, the intricacies and workmanship of this group of structures left us awestruck.

Festooned with an oasis of greenery, River Woods, the homestay was set in midst of unending plantations of coffee, pepper and paddy.

The rustic-looking yet megasized cottage, our home for the night, was indeed lovely. We were served fresh cups of coffee on arrival, the gentle wafts from which were divine in the perfection of the weather.

The River Bhadra runs through the estate bringing an inordinate sense of serenity to its surroundings. We day dreamed by its banks, reflections of trees rippling in the waters that stretched off into infinity.

Unspeakably mellow.

At sundown, we returned to our cottages and dwelled in the warmth of a bonfire and barbeque, telling stories late into the night. Nature, as it turned out, was most benevolent (the winter didn’t chill us to the bone)!

In the aurora of dawn, we awoke to trek in the undulating acres of forestland with the Western Ghats by our side.



Strutting peacocks, the harmonic rhythm of the Arabica pickers and tales from a town making hundreds of tonnes of coffee annually made, indeed, for a delightful experience.

Three hours later, we were on our way back home.

“As long as there was coffee in the world, how bad could things be?”

Read More

Utopia: Three Islands of The Andamans

Port Blair

As the flight from Chennai landed in the island’s archipelago, immediately, a pleasant radiance emanated.

We checked into a cozy B&B, Andaman Galley, a few minutes from the airport. Our only agenda was beach food at Corbyn’s Cove, a curvy coastline with palms in the background, jet skiers and paragliders galore.

The setting sun quickly melted into shades of orange and we rode off towards the iconic Cellular Jail for an evening tour.

In what was a brilliant show of light and sound, we learned of India’s struggle for freedom and the strength of her heroic fighters in these parts.

A fathomless realm.

We then ensconced ourselves in the exotic Fortune Resort Bay Island, swaying to the tunes of the 90s, and retiring to bed early.

Havelock Island

In the soporific breeze of dawn, the Green Ocean ferry awaited us as we climbed aboard its royal class.

The mellifluous waves of the Bay of Bengal, the extensive sweep of the sky with a hint of sunshine and the gentle wafts of air reduced us to liquid slow, in mind and body. Except when we spotted flying fish!

Three hours later, we arrived at the Havelock jetty and hailed an autorickshaw (more easily available than cabs) that led us to Island Vinnie’s Tropical Beach Resort. Located on Beach no. 3 and the hub of Dive India, we had truly descended upon paradise!

The tented cabana was an eco-friendly, luxurious, clean, comfortable accommodation, adjacent to the beach, and oh, a private hammock for happiness.

A massive breakfast at the Full Moon Cafe was followed by biking all the way to Kaala Pathar, yet another piece of gorgeous façade interrupted by bits of private beachland.

Sunset on the island decorated the pristine beaches of Radhanagar, voted among Asia’s best, and we momentarily forgot about the notoriously rough roads that got us here.

The place felt alive with the warmth and sound of the languid seawater.

At the rise of the misty sun, the next morning, we dressed in our scuba gear ready for a session of diving in ‘Nemo Reef’ of the South Andaman Sea.

We careened underwater while the popular clownfish peeked in and out of his sea anemone, the inquisitive parrotfish displayed herself where a squid or two wandered, a shy manta ray zoomed off the ocean floor in contrast to the sluggish sea cucumber.

A kaleidoscope of colour, a whole different world.

We swam back to the shores, and again got lost in the rhythm of the unspeakably blue waters and the dazzling white sands; strolling, and then pausing to take it all in. Ah, life on an island!

Ross Island

A night was spent in Port Blair’s Shelter on the Sea, a value-for-money homestay, almost touching the sea.

We were awash on to our destination - terra firma, thankfully - after a 15 minute bumpy motor boat ride. On the flipside, oh so azure!

The islet, now abandoned, was quaint wilderness.

Lavish with forest area, we explored the ruins of an erstwhile church, still an elaborate structure, army barracks, remnants of commissioner bungalows undimmed by the advance of time.

The beauty of Ross Island also lies in its flamboyant peacock and a species of red deer that traipsed in our midst as we lost ourselves in tranquility.

“The best love is the kind that awakens the soul and makes us reach for more, that plants a fire in our hearts and brings peace to our minds.”

Our two cents on the Andamans: an incontestably magical wonderland.

Read More

Enchanted by Coonoor, The Nilgris, India

It was at the first light of dawn that we arrived in a quiet town surrounded by the “blue mountains”, 2000m above sea level, Coonoor.

Amidst the touch of winter in the wind, we checked into MGM Hill Worth Resorts – a gem of a find, set on a cliff overlooking the pale peaks of the Nilgiri in the farness. What we got was a grandeur room, a sit out verandah, and a private bonfire.

Our first halt, following a stealthy road-climb, was Lamb’s Rock. Here, the frequent wisps of mist uncovered, every now and then, a view of the panoramic tea estates below.

Nature, a magician in all honesty!

“That's the thing about magic; you've got to know it's still here, all around us, or it just stays invisible for you.”

Next, we drove up to Dolphin’s Nose. In the sun illuminating the woods, we hiked to the summit through Shola Forest, only, yet again, to be stifled by beauty.

The sight of the endless undulating hills in the sky stir up a sense of eudaimonia in us, a happiness.

On our way down, we sniffed the scents of eucalyptus and winter green and could'nt resist purchasing their oils.

We also paid a visit to the lush, entrancing Highland Tea Garden. Acres of evergreen shrubbery glistening in the calm afternoon sun.

Dinner (read classic daiquiris!) was at the iconic Gateway Hotel, a charming colonial establishment tucked away in the hilly landscape.

As the morning dawned bright, we booked first class tickets on the Heritage Train from Coonoor to Ooty, and were off on what was a quixotic quest of sorts.

The train chugged through little stations between the endless arrays of trees whistling a lilting tune. The splashes of sunshine, the birds racing back and forth, the hued blossoms, the plentiful vistas, and just the tranquility of it all was an experience to cherish.

As we set foot in Ooty (locally known as Ootacamund), there was just enough time to do lunch at Earl’s Secret in King’s Cliff. Where its history fascinated us, their signature chocolate brownies almost held us hostage.

Our ride back to Coonoor and then home was sadly imminent but this was one of those that, incomprehensibly, left a lasting impact on us.

Read More

Tales from an Indian Union Territory: Pondicherry

We watched from our car windows as the clouds made shapes, and soon reached what was a French settlement in India, Puducherry (Pondicherry or Pondy, with love).

Our choice of stay was Neemrana’s La Maison Tamoule. An idyllic establishment bathing in antiquity - welcoming duplex rooms of typical 19th century architecture, wooden walls, patterns on red mud floors, an open courtyard, a tall patio, and an instant sense of coziness. 

First, we got lunch at La Villa Shanti located amidst former colonial French homes, the luxury of the sea breeze and the indulgent, fresh home-style food, well...c’est la vie! Wandering off into the charming French quarter was a delight all for the angelic churches, neatly arranged mustard coloured bungalows, irregular curio shops, and them lively bars. 

We then quickly pinpointed a sea-facing restaurant and sat ourselves snugly in the pretty picture it painted. 

You know what's beautiful about this part of the city? The Promenade. It is completely traffic-free, after hours, over the weekend. While walking along this beach road in utmost composure, we also found some good company in the streeties. 

Our hearts always yearn for a sight of the approach and retreat of waves, and on this occasion, heavens, did we have our fill!

At daybreak, we lounged awhile (blame it on the large breakfast) before actually venturing out. 

Stop number one was the Aurobindo Handmade Paper Factory where we encountered a world of handcrafted goods and spent a few moments secretly nurturing our relationship with stationery! 

It was also suggested we visit The Mother's Ashram, a realm of seclusion, of spirituality, of meditation, of inner peace. 

No trip to Pondicherry is complete without a customary visit to Auroville. So, we headed towards this township, stopped at a cute coffee house, Boulangerie (incidentally serving divine breads), and worked our way up to the Matrimandir. 

What we witnessed was a magnificent, golden, dome-shaped structure, in a bucolic setting, a touch of sunlight reflecting off its surface. 

As entry to the inside is restricted, and as the drizzle turned into a tearing rain, we trudged to the exit with fresh, raisin muffins in hand. 

We departed from here feeling the feeling of "Wherever you go becomes part of you somehow."

Photo Credits: Akshar

Read More

Celebrating Two Years: Pollachi, India

It was not one of those strong, impulsive feelings that can hit two people like an electric shock when they first meet, but something quieter and gentler, like two tiny lights traveling in tandem through a vast darkness and drawing imperceptibly closer to each other as they go.

– Haruki Murakami, The Wind-up Bird Chronicle

I was blindfolded while he executed the plan.

The journey to Coimbatore and then the two hour road trip towards a town called Pollachi, located near the Tamil Nadu-Kerala border, was all collywobbles.

On our anniversary weekend, we arrived at the foothills of the Anaimalai Hills, lodged in the biodiverse Western Ghats, and witnessed a lush, exclusive property – Great Mount Resorts’ Coco Lagoon.

For one who is slightly averse to planning, the ‘surpriser’ sure did a good job!

On checking into a more than adequate room - with a view of a coconut grove dotting gleaming waters, adjacent to an Ayurvedic spa - the vacationers in us wouldn’t budge from our seats in the balcony.

Hours later, we found ourselves in loungers by the pool, reading classic love stories (don't mind the cheese!).

The sky began to cast a deep shade in the sky as we popped our first bottle of Pinot Noir for the evening.

We drank to an eternity of togetherness.

Following an elaborate breakfast the next morning, we decided to head up the hills blessed with a wealth of Asian elephants in the midst of its luxuriant foliage.

We were also fortunate to see a muster of peacocks fanning their feathers, a plethora of birds darting from tree to tree.

When it was time to return the way we came, and back home to Chennai, our hearts almost wouldn’t let us.

Read More