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Jun 14, 2014

By the end of what was a painfully long New England winter, we found ourselves on a windows-unrolled-feet-up road journey towards the Capital. The overcast skies had nothing to do with our weekend plans. We drove from CT to NY to NJ to DE to MD to DC, got a sweeping glance of the panoramic city by night, before settling into a warm, king bed.

Following a quick breakfast of cinnamon bagels and coffee, we drove past The Pentagon, in the state of Virginia – the colossal defense establishment – and towards the direction of the Washington Monument.

Beautifully sparkling in the sun, a memorial to George Washington, it stood erect on the far end of the Potomac River in wisps of blue sky among glistening flashes of the white and pink cherry blossom. The first signs of spring!


Of course, we were a few days away from peak season.  

The Tidal Basin, where reflections rippled in the water, was like balm to the soul. We walked in tranquility (there’s an art in that too) - despite the, we were told, yearly cherry blossom tourists - and dawdled and let the cool breeze stroke our faces.


The loop around the Basin gradually took us to the Thomas Jefferson Memorial, another construction built in memory of a President.


After a quick slice of pizza, we wandered off to the Smithsonian Museum complex, the largest in the world, each building embellished with swaths of lawn and pebble; the IRS, the Dept. of Justice, the National Archives Building, Constitution Ave and much more.


A view of Capitol Hill in brilliant light! We especially love how this fascinating, multilayered city has touches of sprawling greens, wooded parks and broad avenues.


We renewed ourselves before entering The Air & Space Museum (Tip: If you are ever in the vicinity, take some time off to visit this illuminating display, the best museum in the city).


Last stop before day one: The White House. Funnily, we were reminded of House of Cards' Frank Underwood's “Let the butchery begin.”. 



The next morning, an extravagant brunch awaited us at Mad Hatter near Dupont Circle, succeeding which we made an abrupt stopover at the Lincoln Memorial. The cherry blossom, in the unblemished sunlight, was unrelentingly beautiful, shadows of branches intersecting on the ground below.


We had some time to kill before taking the metro (another scene from the aforementioned sitcom came to mind) back and we used that at the Natural History Museum.


DC in the fewest words: reverberations from the past, intuitions of the future. 

Apr 27, 2014

We love travelling back to India every once in a while. It's almost like looking for beautiful places around the world only to come home to find it.

Bangalore to Coimbatore to Munnar: three cities in three states with old world charm. We stopped for breakfast and realized, there's nothing that ghee pongal, crispy vada-sambar and steaming traditional South Indian filter coffee can't cure. Even the blazing midday sun was forgiven.


We watched the changing landscape, from the Annaimalai Tiger Reserve across the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary towards the city of Munnar.

From the countless windmills, the warm wafting air, the paddy fields as they unrolled ahead and the hills running along the horizon to the sight of green peppercorn on creepers, the scent of purple jacaranda, low-lying clouds, occasional chilly gusts of wind and an intertwining web of passageways, with the tea gardens on either side.


A carpet of greenery.

As our car burned rubber climbing uphill, we watched the planet shrink below us.


Silence reined.

We reached our hotel, one that was perfectly nestled in a quaint village and as we checked into the extra large double suite (with a tres magnifique view), a meal and nap were in order.

Day Two. 6am. Sunrise.


The sky was painted in watercolours and the light of dawn strobing the mountains (of course making the one hour gruelling journey to this point, Top Station, worth it).


Words don't describe this moment. Only, now, it's, as glorious as the rising sun.

We trudged our way to a higher altitude, the hills awash with tea leaves, only to reach the world's highest organic tea garden, the Kolukkumalai Tea Factory.

We were guided through the processing and grading (met lovely tea pickers on the way), generously refilling our cups with orange-pekoe cardamom tea, while being shown the antiquity of an establishment still making thousands of kilograms of organic tea a day.


This led us to the sight of the finely chiseled peaks of the Western Ghats running along the length of the country's west coast. The heavens for a view and an overwhelming sense of smallness of ourselves.


We soon came spirally down to the city and not before doing a local breakfast of puttu, made of ground rice and coconut and aval payasam soaked in jaggery, did we visit the fuchsia, rose and spice gardens where just the fragrance in the air cried, spring.


We circled the quiet lake adjoining the Mattupetty Dam before heading home and couldn't help spending some time revelling in the surrealism of this city.

Photo credits: The very talented, Akshar.

Feb 15, 2014

We spent just about five hours - a day before Thanksgiving - in the heart of Chicago. To put it mildly: Gotham freaking City! Uncanny resemblance to virtual world (fact is, and even though, The Dark Knight series was shot in several locations here).


The Navy Pier: There it stood, Ferris wheel and all, kissing the shoreline of Lake Michigan. Late November is when winter really sets into the Windy City but that night, the air was on the cold side of perfect.



The boardwalk was tempting, tempting enough to take a stroll, back and forth. This quickly ended in a visit to Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville. Loaded volcano nachos for everyone!

We then walked past the Children's Museum - just outside of the pier - interwoven in a glint of frosty stars.


The air got nippier and, us warmer, somewhere along Wells St, off Clarks & Division. You know what can be great on a winter's night? Little swigs of heavy cream, hazelnut and vanilla on a warm bed of liquor followed by falafel over rice.

Small moments in a big city, with soul, waiting to be discovered again.



Jan 24, 2014

"Christmas doesn't come from a store, Christmas means a little bit more."

Christmas in New York City is sparkling, manic and merry (indeed!). And quintessential. Yet amusing. And wonderful. And magical. And occasionally warm due to the gallons of double espressos consumed.

Anything we say would be too little. Luckily, we're picture-blogging this post!
















Moments like these, wish we could live Christmas everyday.

Have a great 2014 y'all. Lots more travel updates from us, this year!

Jan 6, 2014

There are only a few things more thrilling than a Mustang and fall colours, and them together. We checked this off our bucket-list, one beautiful October morning.

Moaning winds and a partly sunlit autumn sky - enhancing the greens, yellows and oranges of the maple - was a day we, and some friends, picked to do a little trip up north: Connecticut to Vermont. About 500 miles, back and forth; a white, sleek, high performance, attention-seeking Mustang convertible being our ride.

But, of course.



Beyond, the landscape was lined with climbing wood, the sun golden on its branches and houses set in the backdrop of fall foliage.


We were floating in a world of picturesque trees.


The small city of Burlington, the largest in the state of Vermont - located on the shores of Lake Champlain - was vibrant and bustling with activity, mid-morning: flame-throwers, street dancers, free tasting in chocolate stores, open fronted pizzerias and plenty of tourists from across the country.


And yet, we found our moment of peace in this hubbub. As the leaves tossed about in the sudden gust of wind, we stood overlooking the circle of the placid lake.

A quiet so deep.

Then, there were samples of strawberry cheesecake ice cream had, at the Ben & Jerry's Factory in Waterbury.


Before going back home, we stopped to stare while the evening light gently picked out the colour on the grass and leaves.


It is believed that true quests of adventure aren't measured so much in time and distance as much as in hope. Here we are already hoping to discover Vermont some more. Soon. 

Dec 16, 2013

'Weekend getaways are like curling up into a soft cloud.'

Our road trip mapped out to be a bell-shaped journey. We chose the opportune Labor Day holiday; from CT to NJ to PA to DE to VA. After meandering through roads unknown, we reached our hotel. The sky was burnt black and we, almost instantly, shrimp-curled into bed.

Outside, the next morning, the sun was warm in our cheeks so we dove headfirst into the day, in the direction of the much celebrated, Luray Caverns.  



The salt formations of stalactite and stalagmite roared in height, intricately sculpted from the walls and it's reflections, as clear as glass. We ambled through the passageways, awed by the magnitude yet stability of these natural 'living' structures, only to end the tour with a performance by the Stalacpipe Organ, the sound of inimitable melody.



"..to dungeons deep and caverns old". Like a fairy tale in stone. 

We then proceeded to do some mining of our own! Picked out a few unpolished crystals of quartz, sandstone and amethyst from a large bag of sand, a constellation of stones, against water lashing around in narrow tunnels.

PS. A visit to the quaint Car & Caravan Museum, just adjacent to the Caverns, with the Benzs, Buicks, Royces, Mustangs, Bugattis and more, from the 1800 & 1900s, was an absolute value-for-time experience.




The sky was luminous except for a few clouds, as we entered the Spotswood Trail along the Shenandoah Valley. The drive was made beautiful by sunlight pushing through the canopy, the chorus of chirping birds and a hazy string of mountains in the distance. Not before long, was there a slashing drizzle that made the road to Richmond, capital of Virginia, much more of an adventure!

After crossing plenty of vast farmland, lush pastures (ah, the countryside!) and the historic triangle of Williamsburg, Yorketown and Jamestown, we accessed a tunnel - towards Chesapeake - and the light at the end of it was the dazzling waters of River James with a few tugboats in the horizon and the sight of waning light.


Serendipity.

We woke up to the glaring midday sun in the summer sky. The Virginia Aquarium, fairly less crowded at that hour, was a kaleidoscope of colours and sea creatures. We spent our time watching lesions of fish, gliding sea horses, schools of stingrays and mantas (that we touched!), energetic otters, bored Komodo dragons, wary snakeheads, disciplined sardines, moody sharks and tigerfish, lionfish & zebrafish among the swaying kelp, in water that was myriad shades of blue and green.


As the day deepened, there was a sweeping gust of cold wind but the boardwalk in the Virginia Beach area was too hard to pass up; the gentle wash of waves, the delicate moon, the sky crammed with stars and the serenity of the moment.

We started back home, via the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, in the early morning chill, in a whirl of wonder, along the glistening sea.



They say, Virginia is for lovers and we left very much in love with its austere beauty. 

Nov 25, 2013


6-14 July, 2013: The week we found true love.


Athens.

After an hour of attempted map-reading and traversing through a relatively traffic-free city, we reached our luxurious little hotel, Athenian Callirhoe, strategically placed in the pocket of a street corner. We, like the Greek, don't like spending our summer evenings indoors! A satisfying dinner - in the heart of Plaka, a marketplace - of potent Ouzo, a local aperitif, and plenty of souvlaki containing char grilled kebabs and steamed vegetablesput us in good mood after the grueling ten-hour flight to here.

Sightseeing in Athens was like taking a peek into world history.


The Temple of Olympus, the Panathenaic Stadium and the Acropolis, all built in reverence of their Gods. If you've ever wondered how these monumental, neo-classical erections were built - of course, with the help of the Romans, hence the similarity in construction. The view atop the Acropolis, survived by the Parthenon, dedicated to Goddess Athena, and Erechtheion, an ancient temple opposite the prestigious olive tree - although the ruins rounded by weather - was palatial.

No words can describe this vastness, these ramifications, an expanse holding secrets from the past.


We trudged upon a famous, Vyzantino, cafe for more souvlaki and liquid. The labyrinth of alleyways, the open-fronted gift shops, feral cats sunning themselves and the general bustle of the city center was a sight to be experienced. It was not long before we set off to visit a few more island-towns.

Mykonos.

The sky was brilliant with sunshine as we merged into the strips of clouds above us. What we knew of this land was not what we saw. It was more. It was dreamlike.

We took a bus to our hotel, through a network of spider-webbed roads, on top of the cliff. The Myconian Imperial Resort, the King of all resorts in Mykonos, with restaurants overlooking the crystal clear waters of the Aegean, was where we arrived.


Champagne breakfasts, late lunches of mouthwatering, pan-fried feta, herb fillets, with seasoned baby potatoes and carrots, and local products, Mythos and Metaxa, were had. Dessert always ended with Mastika; it would be right to mention here that just one swig of this anise-flavoured liquor will suffice as a digestif for all your meals! We proceeded to a cute village in the heart of this Cyclades island called Little Venice, which apart from looking exactly like it's name suggests, had the iconic windmills looming over the landscape.


It felt like time had shifted, warped.

This was also the seat in contention for the most beautiful sunset in the world.


The orange sun almost looked like it was nudging the horizon. We sat there, drinking Fix and eating Kataifi and mango gelatos, in the pre-dusk quiet. It was stargazing heaven.

Delos.

It was believed, you can't give birth or die, in this historic - now abandoned - town of Greece, because that was considered human activity, and Delos was the birthplace and the Land of Gods! A short ferry ride, with the pulsing wind in our hair and the harsh summer sun staring down, took us to this islet.


Delos was the city with a story, the story of Gods. A mythological wonderland.

This day-cation ended with going back to Mykonos for some more hummus-pita and the honey and cinnamon cakes of baklava. Heaps of it, at that.

Santorini.

The port of Santorini, or commonly Thira, blistered our eyes at first sight, beauty like that.

Brunching by the Mediterranean, with a view of the caldera and a platter of feta and graviera cheese, sun-dried Santorini tomatoes, tzatziki, sauce made of goat's milk, black olive oil paste, fava bean puree and Greek pastas, giovetsi and skordomakarona. From our hotel, Adamant Suites, another ridiculously, soothing view of the capital city, Fira, and the town of Oia in the distance, typical blue & white homes from which occasional ribbons of smoke arose, the sunset, as it crested the cliff every evening, and the turquoise blue, pristine, gleaming waters.

Breakfast was with a view and truly, extravagant.


As a curtain of clouds parted, there were shards of sunlight drifting over the part-submerged volcano, and then, that gentleness of breeze from the ocean. Isolated by this on one side and a steep cliff on the other, the narrow, zigzag trails, running through the city, looked like they were etched. Donkeys jingled up and down these routes daily but we took the one leading to Akrotiri, down prehistoric memory lane! This archaeological site was destroyed by volcanic eruptions and dates back to almost 1 millennium BC.

A whiff of past splendour.

Snorkeling noobs that we were - not ashamed to admit that we were quite intimidated - the leisurely waters off the black sand Kamari Beach, was pretty damn amazing. Streaks of sunlight struck the water, waves lapped at the cliffs and there was a chop in the sea; the marine ecosystem in the Mediterranean was resplendent, colourful and plentiful.


On our journey back, we jet-skied to the starting point, battling the monstrous waves but taking in the scenic allure, that actually brought us to Greece. Burnt like a firecracker but ready to take on another meal! Fried saganaki and mecho dessert wine before we reached our final stop, Astarte Suites.

We were sure we hadn't seen anything like this, ever before.



Twilight chill, poolside dining (strawberry risotto and wine), the sky beginning to thicken with stars, a hint of papery white light from the moon and...

...the most beautiful place on Earth, yet.


"Sometimes, even though we might never find what we're looking for, isn't it enough to just walk together in the moonlight?"