Sights In & Around San Francisco, California

Touchdown. One angelic November noon. Instant west coast vibe. Weather, unconditionally warm (compared to the bone-chilling winds encountered in Boston).

Here are some of our favourite moments spent in the delightful northern half of the republic of California:

City of SFO
The metro buzzed with life while it bathed in moonlight that evening. A tranquil sort of energy filled the air as we headed to Fisherman’s Wharf to imbibe the Christmas spirit, walk the pier, cram on all that Biscoff had to offer, and the bowl of unimaginably delicious cheesy potato chowder.

In the pallid light of day, the next morning, we paid a visit to Lombard St. aka the crooked street aka 8 sharp hairpin bends in one block!

From here, straight to the soul of San Francisco, the brightly glowing Golden Gate Bridge overpassing the pure blue waters of the bay. We set eyes on this infrastructural classic from the Marin Headlands.

Robert Mondavi and Peju Grapevines of Napa Valley
All we could see was meandering roads stretching into miles of fertile land of the dales of Napa, 400 wineries spread out over interminable properties to be precise.

#1 At Robert Mondavi’s, the elegance in the coastal red wines and blushes (try the Pinot Noir and Fumé Blanc) paired with delicatessen brie and the sprawl and vastness of the lush vineyard held us ransom before we ambled onto our next round of fine wine tasting.

#2 The Peju winery was a gorgeous facade of the Rutherford Estate with impressive tower-architecture and a great barrel room. The vino, especially the Cabernets (2013 Franc and Reserve) sent us spinning into a dizzying aftertaste of oaks and cherries and berries.

Pacific Coast Highway
The 17-mile drive, the country’s iconic, was indeed a telltale: the soporific breeze, barking harbor seals in the distance, the scenic road kissing the Pacific, waves languidly tossing back and forth, and the infinity of it all.

In the incessant rain squall, we rode through the Pebble Beach community with our first pitstop at Lone Cypress. Although it appeared to be delicately perched on the rocky cliff, this low-hung, noble tree continues to stay rooted to its spot for years despite weathering.

Then, as the clouds rumbled, we promenaded by the seashore and came upon Spanish Bay where we dwelled in the view of its azure, curvy coastline lined by Monterey pines.

Before concluding with a halt at the beautiful Lodge that overlooked a golf course, we took some minutes to mull at Point Joe, where, it is believed, the seven ocean currents meet. “We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether it is sail or to watch - we are going back from whence we came.”

Muir Woods National Monument
Situated about two hours from San Fran, there exists the Muir Woods of more than 500 acres of forest cover with some of the trees aged over a millennium. A kaleidoscope of earthy greens and rusty reds.

Our hike was amidst groves of large-girth giant coast redwoods of the Sequoia species that ascended far, far into the sky. We were, like always, indebted to this landscape that gave us perspective.

As we climbed the moderately strenuous swampy trail veined into the slopes, it was hard not to notice how bountiful and grand the wilderness was, a symphony of sights and sounds.

Mystery Spot
A bit of a tourist attraction but hey, we were amazed because it WAS mind-boggling! Defying gravitational laws, probably an optical illusion, the mystery spot is an area in the thickets all of about 100 feet where one may get lightheaded from the 17 degree tilt.

No, it’s not due to the climate change nor is it manmade. Mysterious!

With this, our incredibly short ‘NorCal’ Bay Area odyssey culminated but for those few days, as they say, “we lived in the sunshine and drank the wild air.”

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Into the National Parks of Utah, USA

“We find ourselves back to the things that matter the most. The universe is funny that way. Sometimes it just has a way of making sure that we wind up exactly where we belong.”

Arches National Park

Our eyes drank in a fine overview of a series of arch and rock formations jutting into a sky of unfurling clouds, on entering the park from highway 191.

The Petrified Dunes appeared among the cushionets of shrubs; named for the process of sand dune-hardening-into-stone, while nearby, in the strobe of the sun stood Balanced Rock, in perfect equilibrium.

A short walk from there lay the striking Double Arch, North & South, its surrounding landscape impressing upon our minds.

The sighting of the ‘Spectacles’, ‘The Windows’, a visual treat of a myriad hues of burnt oranges, was followed by a captivating view of Turret Arch.

Utah’s Grand County is home to the iconic Delicate Arch, a natural, freestanding formation of sandstone. Stunning!

We crossed the moderately strenuous trailhead in the warm dusk, and neared this ineffaceable creation to watch the melodramtic sun sink and silhouette the arch.

Zion National Park

The road along state highway 89 towards Springdale, driving southwest, was like poetry in motion, a picturesque way through meandering rivers and the Big Rock Candy mountains.

Riding the heliographic Mt. Carmel Byway, we encountered hillocks whittled into rocks of iron ore, mostly eroded by time.

Lush! was what came to mind when we hiked the path cutting across the tumbling river, leading towards the upper reaches of Emerald Pool.

An oasis in the aridness, a secret alcove of sorts.

We ambled upstream the Virgin River, along the swampy Temple of Sinawava trail, 2.5 miles in length. A kaleidoscope of colours ensued.

The lilting melody of fall leaves and gushing waters entranced us as we approached the Narrows, a deep gorge encompassed by walls of sandstone several feet in height.

Last stop, The Great White Throne - a startling white mountain of Navajo sandstone gleaming in the light, and leaving us enthralled.

Bryce Canyon National Park

Spires from the ravine came into our vista as we drove along Utah’s All American Road into the expansive reaches of the national park.

The scenic drive lined with Ponderosa pine trees circled the rim of the amphitheatre as we drifted past its viewpoints, the alluring Natural Bridge, Agua Canyon overlooking the rocks and the north-facing Rainbow Point among a few.

Simply put, the vibrant, red-orange-brown hoodoos of the Bryce Canyon was a photogenic, inexhaustive panorama. We were overwhelmed by this marvellous phenomenon.

Witnessing monoliths in various sizes and stages of weathering and erosion was like living in different eras simultaneously.

This vertiginous, gooseflesh-inducing hike (we chose the Queen’s Garden route) satiated our need, for a lifetime, to be in direct contact with the Earth.

“A heart filled with love is like a phoenix that no cage can imprison.”

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The Island of Put-in-Bay on Lake Erie

From Catawba island, we ferried (Miller line) our hybrid Diamondbacks as the sun danced on the gentle waters of Erie, one among the Great Lakes.

On arrival, a bike map was drawn that covered a loop around the isle measuring less than a few square miles in area, and off we jaunted!

Primarily to hydrate, a halt at Heinemen’s winery was justified, a sweeping 50 acres of grapes where we procured samples of Cedar Woods Red and the Island Blush paired with an assortment of cheeses.

As warm gusts of wind stroked our faces, we rode amidst the woods to reach Stonehenge Estate, a family owned vineyard and farmhouse.

Leaving a trail of fairy dust behind and proceeding along the blissful seaside marinas and Perry’s Victory and Peace Monument, we wound up at the tip of South Bass Island.

There is an unbridled joy that accompanies the sight of the endless horizon, the rhythm of the waves, the vastness of the incredulous ocean, and losing ourselves for a while.

The patio at Hooligans was illuminated in golden light that evening. A vibrant, multi-coloured salad, an Irish sandwich on sweet potato fries and a mugful of Magners and Guinness helped us attain a state of fjaka, and we aspired for nothing more at that moment.

Post-lunch biking was tiresome but on spotting Oak Point State Park, we pulled over! Dangling our feet in the cool waters and watching as the seagulls darted about, was a dreamscape.

Riding on the silky smooth roads in the amourous dusk, we made our final stop at The South Bend Chocolate Company where we sampled cherry chocolates, double chocolate chip and vanilla ice creams.

This quixotic adventure ended with worn out muscles yet left us feeling numinous.

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Cleveland Chronicles, Ohio

“How many godly creatures are there here!/ How beauteous mankind is! O brave new world,/ That has such people in ‘t!”

Almost 600 miles away, in the state of Ohio, lay Cleveland that beckoned to us, one weekend, like a shiny unfamiliar constellation.

We made a priority stop at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame - a supernatural, bold, elevated, prismatic construction situated on the banks of Lake Erie.

Gamboling and reminiscing legendary music-makers, Jim Morrison, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Elvis Presley, Jimi Hendrix, Michael Jackson, sent warm waves of nostalgia through us.

We checked into Holiday Inn’s Cleveland Clinic for a quick nap (the straight 8-hr drive had taken its toll) before delving into the city’s throbbing heart, East 4th. Exuding an iridescent feel, this street was so alive with bars and restaurants that it stalled us in make dinner plans.

Finally, Zócalo Tequilería it was, with flavoured margaritas and abundant bowls of guacamole, tortillas, nachos, black beans and all.

Walking hand-in-hand in the moonlight, past Playhouse Square, we realized that travelling together brings out the best in us.

Day two in the city began with a visit to the vibrant indoor/outdoor West Side Market.

Rows of delicatessen cheeses, a melange of aromas from baked French breads, bagfuls of brewing coffee beans, chocolate and raspberry filled pastries, colourful, twirly pasta, and more. Oh, our bottomless stomachs!

Adjoining the marketplace thrived the Great Lakes Brewing Company. It took us just one glance to be smitten - the wooded decor, the chirpy vibe and little dining canopies in the open added a certain ambience while we sat savouring our pale ales and dark roasted malts.

As the pavonine rays of the sun peaked, we found ourselves gypsying around Cuyahoga National Park, half an hour from the cosmopolitan. The almost-gothic forest trail led to the unspeakably serene waters of Brandywine Falls drifting into infinity.

“You are the universe in ecstatic motion.”

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Boston in Our Eyes, MA, USA

We set out, under a cerulean blue sky striated with clouds, a day marred with perfection, to Massachusetts’ largest, Boston.

# Quincy Market, the city’s first public marketplace, is the soul of Beantown; its Greek-style architecture, historic location by Faneuil Hall, the arcades of food vendors (read divine Italian pastries and Thai bubble teas) and its upbeat vibe with performers had us galumphing around, felicitously.

# Government Center in the downtown area was a labyrinth of concrete and stone buildings alike, one that defied maps. It was from here that we rented Hubway bikes and toured the roads like flaneurs.

# The Boston Tea Party of 1773 was less festivity and more a political protest that involved 342 chests of tea thrown into the ocean, a mark in the American Revolution. We cavorted around the harbour taking in the splendorous colours. Oh, summer!

# Downtown Crossing, a glorious, heavily festooned shopping area, had us spending a few moments just bathing in the sunlight.

# Boston Common is a part of the Emerald Necklace chain and also the oldest park in the country built in colonial times. On entering the premises, it drew us into an oasis of greenery, as we rode among the swaying trees and midday blaze.

# Mike’s Pastry in Harvard Square sent us into a state of delirium. The reputed classic, vanilla and choco chip cannolis, the cream pies, almond biscottis are some of what caused the aforementioned.

# Brattle Book Shop: If heaven was a place on Earth, it would be this adorable, antique bookstore! Three floors, and an outdoor sale, of beautifully crafted volumes and an incredible range of 1st editions too. “So many books, so little time.”

# Charles St. in Beacon Hill is an artsy neighbourhood in the center of Boston surrounded by boutiques and restaurants. Brunch, at Tatte Bakery and Cafe, was a luxurious affair complete with sweet potato tarts, cherry tomato and feta quiche, crispy halloumi salad, egg sandwiches, and a few rounds of brewed coffee.

# Massachusetts Institute of Technology’s Great Dome, where we frittered away on the lawns, houses a world of scientific knowledge; constructed in the early 1900s and situated opposite the wandering waters of Charles.

# Charles River, totalling 80 miles in length, oozed romance that evening! We blithely watched as sailboats cruised under the fading sun while the warm breeze carried a whiff of the sea.

# Boston Public Library located in Copley Square is one of the nation’s finest. Our visit there proved cathartic. The reading areas, especially Bates Hall, pierced our weak hearts with sublimity and was every bit a bibliophile’s dream. Our ebullience was undiminished as we delved into the history defining its heavily painted ceilings and walls.

After an exhilarating 24 hours, we concluded this trip but knew that our dalliance with the city of Boston had only just begun.

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